#13 Palets de Dames 1951

Not burnt - they're supposed to have brown edges.

The French game of ring toss was the inspiration for the name. The cookies emerge from the oven with reliable dark brown edges, mimicking the rope rings used in the game.

These showed real promise for flavor. Currants are soaked in rum, and both currants and the rum are added to the batter. In spite of using 151 Rum, very little rum flavor is left after baking. After all, this is the liquor, not a strong rum flavoring. I will have to remember that liquor evaporates during baking and is not a reliable flavor-enhancer. If only I'd consumed the rum over ice.

Cookies pipe easily onto a buttered
(and should have been floured) cookie sheet.
They come off the sheet without the flour.

The two whole eggs in this recipe produce a cake-like consistency. A client of mine was enthusiastic in his praise for these light, delicate disks.

Of the several cookies on the plate, I was surprised this one caught his attention. I am not a fan of the texture. If I'd wanted a cake, I'd have made a cake. The cookies got better after sitting out overnight (by mistake). They dried out. Hardly a recommendation.

In the interest of full disclosure, I'll admit to a distinct bias - cookies must be crunchy. A soft crunch or hard crunch - no matter. But they must resist the teeth.

Hmm, still more rum in the bottle ... and I know where to find the ice.

The recipe is here and here. A recipe with more butter that should bake up crisper, or at least richer, is here and here.

Comments

#33 Almond Bolas (Portuguese Almond Cookies) 1975

Three almond balls ( bolas ) in a row. "This one is good," my sister-in-law Jill told me. She tried not to express too much surprise, but I have regaled her with too many tales of failed cookies. And forced her to eat a few duds. I was glad this one made the grade. I liked it, too. You might think I am a hopeless romantic to fall for another almond cookie. (Italy, almond cookies. Almond cookies, Italy.) The fact is every country that can grow almonds has its special recipes for almond cookies. Portugal is no exception. The ground blanched almonds combine with dry bread crumbs, then the usual sugar, egg whites and almond extract. The dry bread crumbs are key. When the cookies are fresh from the oven, the bread crumbs add a perfect crunch to their rustic, nutty texture. Holes in the center ready for filling. These cookies don't "drop." You roll them in a ball ( bola ) and press a hole in the center, as for jelly-filled thumbprint cookies. Egg yolk

#21 Cornetti 1989

First, the texture. These crescent-shaped darlings came closest to the crisp-outside, soft-inside of the almond cookies I've been craving. The difference with these is their distinct orange flavor, from chopped, candied orange peel, and the cup of white cornmeal that adds a gritty crunch to each bite. Cornetti, dusted with powdered sugar. These firm, hearty cookies, with a ground almond base, are my first real almond cookie success. They are not the same as any cookie I tasted in Italy; I have yet to duplicate those bakery cookies. These stand on their own, apart from the rest, and they are every bit as good. After one minute in boiling water, almonds are ready to have skins removed. Blanching almonds. Orange peels simmering in sugar syrup. The bad news is the labor required, especially if you begin with almonds that have their skins. Although an easy process of blanching in hot water allows the skins to be removed for an all-white dough, by the time I was done,

#12 Navettes Sucreés (Sugar Shuttles) 1950

Cookies topped with sparkling sugar on left, granulated sugar on right. This cookie is almost as satisfying as the vanilla scent that fills the kitchen while baking. Similar to the Christmas Butter Cookies, egg yolks contribute to their light, crumbly texture. The name is a reference to the long thin device that guides yarn back and forth across the warp in weaving (or a device on a sewing machine). But these cookies look nothing like their name. Frankly, I would not expect anyone to take one look at these cookies and say, "I know - a weaving shuttle." Not happening. Butter, eggs and vanilla await kneading into dry flour, sugar and salt mixture. I wonder if the recipe or cookie shape goes back to an era of early weavers, or if this was a 1950's invention for the magazine. The Cookie Book calls them "cigar-shaped," not an image I'd evoke to sell a cookie. The making is easy. After rolling bits of dough into, shall we say, a small slug shape (I

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